Omega Seamaster 300m 234.10.39.20.01.001

‘It may not look pretty on the surface, but deep down it’s beautiful.’ Those aren’t my words—those are Omega’s. The people there tasked with building the brand’s most advanced diver yet knew their watch was no looker, but that didn’t matter. It wasn’t for strutting about with; it was for using. It was the Plongeur Professionnel, the PloProf—the Professional Diver.

For the cynical among us, it's becoming difficult to remain enthusiastic when Omega announces the results of yet another archival plundering. We all enjoy a good look back into the past, but there's a limit, a time to move forward with our lives and on to something new, right? So when news broke of the arrival of a Seamaster 300 reissue, the collective groan from watch-weary enthusiasts was palpable. Was that dismayed exhalation justified? Is Omega's copy-paste approach to watchmaking wearing thin?

1970 was an important year for watchmaking. Three years after the launch of the Sea-Dweller, 1970 was the year that introduced the only watch likely to take the fight to Rolex's behemoth: the Omega PloProf. Angled and slab-like, the PloProf was leagues ahead of its time both technologically and stylistically: it used scratch-resistant mineral glass over the Sea-Dweller's plexiglass, had a locking bezel with push-button release and a crown protector design unlike anything ever seen before. Ultimately, the Sea-Dweller was victorious in the fight to win a contract with deep-sea diving agency COMEX, but the PloProf won a different battle: it was by far the most inventive and interesting diver of that great period.

It doesn't require a huge knowledge of watches to know that vintage Submariners are a popular place to put money. The hardy little dive watch has served Rolex well since its inauguration in the early 1950s, building a loyal following that has almost become something of a cult. Collectors argue over the merest details: fonts, logos, and even manufacturing defects being among the points of contention that drive arguments - and prices - sky high.